Showing posts with label black hills. Show all posts
Showing posts with label black hills. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 2, 2014

A search for artist Dennis Linn finds a really great gallery in Rapid City


My painting of the view from M Hill
Last month I participated in the Urban Plein Air Competition held by The Dahl Fine Arts Center in downtown Rapid City
Starting with blank canvases you have eight hours to finish painting views of the city. The artwork in the competition was nice, and the artists were even nicer. Dennis Linn's intricate painting of Prairie Edge won uncontested. Even better he was genuinely fun to talk to. 
Winning artist Dennis Linn

I wanted to see more of his work, so a week later I went to the only gallery in Rapid City that represents him, the Alex Johnson Mercantile

This is a friendly looking shop right underneath the hotel of the same name, and I had never visited it.

What a great surprise I found!  

From inexpensive souvenirs to truly accomplished works of art, the Mercantile has a bit of everything. It is mostly the work of individual artisans or small collectives. This is exactly the kind of shop I am looking for when shopping locally!
















But the shop does not truly light up until you start talking to co-owner Jennifer Johnson. She told me "I wanted the store to have a heartbeat" and she has certainly succeeded. This bright woman is clearly the soul of the shop and the reason it has such a welcoming feel.


Jennifer has a story about every piece in the shop and was happy to take the time to tell them.  She is so excited about the artists she works with that her energy is contagious.  
evocative paintings by Dennis Linn and Jeff Gulbransen

Items large and small


Leonard Yellow Horse's carved Cottonwood roots have warmth and humor that make them a favorite

this men's bracelet by Michael Running Shield shows incredible skill
These are just a few of the unique treasures in the shop.  Jennifer speaks beautifully of our city and the Black Hills and says "it's all right here" "it's coming through my front door" of the art and crafts the Mercantile carries. She wants everything in the store to be "touchable" and she is proud to "honor these friends in our stores" by displaying the pieces and telling their stories. 

 Next time I visit I want to take the time to make my own wire bracelet using the collection of beads she keeps near the counter. And I want to visit in the winter because the warm heart of this place will travel with me when I have to go back into the cold.



Thursday, August 7, 2014

On a mission to find artist David Uhl at Sturgis Rally

Today I am going to find artist David Uhl at the Sturgis Bike Rally. From his Facebook feed I know he is set up in the Gold Dust casino in Deadwood. To get to this town I have to drive about ten miles past the epicenter of The Rally so it is going to be an adventure all the way!
one group of bikers setting out for Sturgis
If you have not been in the Black Hills during the Sturgis rally it is hard to picture the effect it has on the entire area.  This time of year in the Black Hills Harleys often outnumber the four wheeled vehicles on our roads. Hundreds of thousands of people come to the Rally. The buzz and roar of Harley engines is everywhere and the streets are filled with sunburned people in leathers that have been riding, camping, and partying for a week or more.  

This is the perfect backdrop for the art of David Uhl. I started following him on facebook earlier this year after a friend posted one of his paintings to my timeline.  His paintings feature Harleys in scenes from american history, and he manages to imbue them with personality and passion that are hard to find anywhere in the art world. I want to meet him and see his work in person!
by David Uhl.  How can you not love this?
 Wednesday morning, right in the middle of Rally week, I set out in my trusty Prius.
My trip from Rapid City to Deadwood took me right past Sturgis and through ten miles of winding canyon to Deadwood.  This is  the old west town turned modern gambling hub that is featured in the HBO series called Deadwood.  This part of the journey, especially with thousands of motorcyles sharing the road, was quite an adventure.  My attention was more on getting there than on the exciting scene so i did not take photos for you, but next year this should be the subject of its own photo blog, the drive was that impressive. I kept driving right through the great festival that is downtown Deadwood and parked at the Mickelson trail head.  The Mickelson trail is the Black Hills own Rails to Trails project, a hundred miles of graded bike path running all through the hills on the old railroad bed.  The trail head in Deadwood is located where a bridge crosses the creek. It is an oasis of calm after the chaos of downtown Deadwood.

Bridge and creek at the trail head

The walk through town is surrounded by old stone and brick buildings. I decided to stop in at this one:

The Adams Museum is three stories of Deadwood history and americana in a historic building. The town was founded when US citizens flouted the treaty with the Lakota people to search for gold in the 1870s.  It quickly began to capitalize on its'reputation as a wild west town to bring in tourism. Things slowed down in the middle of the 20th century. In the 1990s the South Dakota constitution was changed to allow gambling and Deadwood once again began to bring in tourists with its' wild west reputation.  The Adams Museum tells the story of Deadwood with well designed displays and lots of historical objects.  The volunteers are friendly, but the real reason to visit is that it gives you information about things you will actually see as you walk through the town.

Around the next corner I found ,this great version of a coffee shop:

The Pump House is my favorite kind of business: locally owned and run with excellent food and customer service.  The building is an old gas station decorated with period signs and memorabilia so there is lots to look at. To top it off, the deli shares the space with a glass blower who was working at the furnace as I ate my excellent chicken salad sandwich.  They offer introductory glass blowing classes here.  This made me think of my step brother Aaron who started to learn this craft before he passed away earlier this year.  It would have been great to bring him here.

Just up the hill from the Adams Museum and the Pump House is the Mount Moriah Cemetary.  You can take a walking tour that includes the graves where Wild Bill Hickock and Calamity Jane are buried.  The personalities here are first class, but they are overpowered by the view of the hills and town.





As I walked back to town from visiting Mount Moriah, a doe walked across the street in front of me.  She was unphased by the constant noise of motorcycles traveling to the cemetary.
deer crossing
selfie with oak
The walk down the hill was a great time for contemplation.  I looked at the tree filled skyline and thought about the pictures of the founding of Deadwood, when the slopes were bare. The town was actually named because the trees here were dead.  I wonder why?  Was there a fire in the area in the years before the prospectors first invaded the area?  Or was there some tree disease like the pine beetles we are fighting now?  It is hopeful and inspiring to see how the trees grew from those bare slopes to make a majestic forest




1890s photo displayed at the Michelson trail head
the same skyline today

My final destination, the Gold Dust Casino, was just a half block past the Pump House.  The street was packed with bikes and riders, the Deadwood tour buses were in full swing, and there in the window working on his latest painting, was David. To get the feel of it, check out this video he posted on his facebook feed this week: video of Sturgis exhibit  

He donated a half dozen of his works to different charities that are doing fundraising at Sturgis this year:
If at all possible try to make the Biker Bells auction/reception at the Chip today, meet Jessi Combs as she's there to help raise funds. I have a feeling you may get a smoking deal on this massive 36x48 giclee we have donated. retails for $4850.00 — with Carlos Alberto Guglielmelli Viglioni and 4 others.

Photo: If at all  possible try  to make the Biker Bells auction/reception  at the Chip today, meet Jessi Combs as she's there to help raise funds. I have a feeling you may get a smoking deal on this massive 36x48  giclee we have donated. retails for $4850.00
I was able to pick up this fun book that shows his work and tells a lot of stories:
and yes, I was able to say Hi to David in person.


Have your own adventure by looking at David Uhl's website at this link:  uhlstudios.com

Saturday, February 22, 2014

Black Hills Homestead


Black Hills Homestead


This week I went riding at the Sage Meadow Ranch near Custer State Park. When I stopped to explore this old homestead site I found a beautiful and unexpected experience.

One of the turns on the way to the ranch is marked by this homestead site.



It looks like a dozen other falling apart buildings that I saw today but looking closer I found a treasure trove of history and memories. The remains of six structures stand on this piece of ground, each telling the story of a different era.


The big house is closest to the road.  There are scraps of wooden shingles still on the roof and the house is painted a neat grey.


Inside are the lasting remains of a life lived in the 20th century.  Appliances and mattress springs are scattered on the broken boards that used to be the floor and light pours through between roof beams.
bird nest tucked in a pantry
stairs lead to the second story

   

 The front side of the neat grey house shows the ravages of time more than the back.  The paint has been stripped from the wood and the roof is growing moss.  

This big house faces a creek. On either side of the tiny creek are wooden posts and lintels.  These lonesome structures were once doors leading in to dugout homes.  For those, like me, who grew up on the books of Laura Ingalls Wilder, a real dugout touches a wealth of memories.  This kind of structure is basically a hole in the ground with a roof built over it.  Families like Laura's spent their first winter in this dark smokey pit, safe from the mind bending power of prairie weather, hoping this homestead gamble would not take their lives or their sanity.

 

Just a few more yards down the creek is another more modern house.
small house with well pump and cistern

lathe, no plaster.  no floor...


 A little further down a third house did not remain standing. 
 When I showed this picture to my mom she repeated the joke that when the wind stopped blowing the house had nothing to lean on anymore.  The wind is a force to be reckoned with when you are building a home in this part of the country.
 The foundation of this house appears to be set up on stilts.  Is this the reason the house fell when three others remained standing?


The house furthest downstream is my favorite structure. A log cabin! This is the structure that the huge log mansions you see in mountain towns are based on.  No, they don't have the same feel to them.

            

Corrugated metal roofing in the first room behind the main cabin has rusted to metal lacework.  The roof of the main cabin was made of wooden planks.  It has fallen in as well.  Small plants grow from the floor that once was the main living space.





The second added room is only about four feet tall.  Inside it are years- decades?- worth of pine cones.  If this was originally a food storeroom it appears the squirrels are continuing with the same purpose.
After visiting this fascinating homestead have been looking for information on prairie life and building.  Google has not been forthcoming.  The romance and hardship that peoples my memories may lead me to more research....Who homesteaded here?  Did the same family stay to build all of these structures?  Why did they leave? When? 
In the meantime I will be rereading Laura Ingalls Wilder.

Thursday, February 13, 2014

Rapid City, Dinosaur Park, and Skyline Drive. It's a wilderness area, really

Dinosaur Park

Here is an easy spot to visit. Right plunk in the middle of town. For groups that include small children it is a great choice. No entrance fees. Plenty to see and experience, but you are never too far from the car or lunch if the someone gets fussy. It combines kitschy americana with layers of history, science, and culture so it is worth going again and again. Easy to find, too 'cause it is marked by an 80 foot dinosaur visible from all over town.

This is a place we visited when we were kids, and now we take the youngest cousins- and the occasional kitten on a leash.  We have three generations worth of photographs of kids sitting on the same life size concrete dinosaurs. This is a park for families and tourists, but it also has the marks and memories of generations of teens and the eerie history of a frontier town overlaid with modern struggles to define a community.


Today Ash, Shadow, and I climbed the hill to take our own pictures.


It has been sunny and warm so the lack of "winter maintenance" doesn't bother us too much- though my shoes were ill chosen.  Definitely time to get running shoes with a little more tread on them!
      

                     

 We got all the traditional pictures- sitting at the base of the bronto-oops, apatosaurus, climbing on the triceratops, and the handsome duckbill.
Then we spent some time exploring the trees and rocks and just looking at the view.
Ash looking east over the parking lot and gift shop

The rocks here tell their own kind of story.  How long have teenagers come here to carve their names in the sandstone?  I have memories of this.  So do my parents.  Were there kids coming up here for gently illicit adventures during the depression?
So many contrasts are visible here.  Shadow is standing a masonry wall that I walked on as a child. Beyond the railing is a faded much patched asphalt surface that follows the natural contours of the hill. The red tinted decorative concrete surface of the walkway has been added in the last decade and shows little wear. 

There is older, more violent history here as well.
This plaque in the parking area tells how justice was served when Rapid City was a frontier town.  The artist's depiction on the plaque shows the tree and rocks that used to be a part of the our dinosaur hill visits.  

Sometime in the last few decades this historic landmark- complete with hanging tree- mysteriously became private property.  Even though it is only a few hundred yards from the rest of the park the rocks were fenced off and a private home built.  Now instead of climbing the rocks and telling chilling tales of frontier justice we are greeted by hostile signs and iron fencing.  The familiar hanging tree and rock lookout are still there, but we no longer have the right to touch this piece of history.

It looks like I am not the only person who was upset by this.

I like to end my visit to Dinosaur Park by driving along Skyline Drive.  This crumbly narrow road is an adventure to drive- or to jog.  You wind along the tip top of the ridge looking far down to the city on either side of you.  It is a lovely drive that appeals to something deep inside.  The last few years I notice signs all along the drive indicating a wilderness area.  This seems odd given that you are in the center of the second largest city in the state of South Dakota.  I did a bit of research and sure enough there is a good story behind these signs.  The fencing off and privatizing of city landmarks appears to have offended quite a few of us.  A group known as the Skyline Drive Preservation Group purchased 160 acres at the top of this hill to keep it from being developed the way Hangman's Rock was.  They donated it to the city in 2006.  While there are quite a few houses up here, there is enough empty land to keep the eerie feel that makes this such a favorite area to explore.  I don't know who the members of this preservation group are, but I can't help feeling I have found kindred spirits here!

One other favorite spot is a stone that marks a death of another kindred spirit.  A small turnout along Skyline drive beckons me to stop and look out to the west.  Standing here you can see the west side of town laid out like a map and the Black Hills stretched out behind.

The story on this stone is of a man who came here to get a view of a fire that was threatening hundreds of homes.  It was known as the Westberry trails fire.  This was the worst of a series of fires started by an arsonist in 1988 and this high vantage point must have been a spectacular place to watch the fire.  The problem with high vantage points is that they attract lightning, something which we are all aware of yet often choose to ignore...Mark Mcgough lost his life in a lightning strike that day.  The fire was put out with only 15 homes destroyed, and the arsonist was never found.

Today was sunny and warm with just enough wind to bring scents to the dogs.  Our visit to Dinosaur Hill and Skyline Drive was satisfying, especially as the ever changing South Dakota weather brought grey clouds and sprinkles soon after we returned home.